ART IN 3-D, A TUTORIAL

I’ve been helping my mom move, and in the process have helped her decide where to hang the numerous photos, prints, and paintings. One little set of butterflies reminded me of the hours we’d spent indulging in the craft that produced them. They were worth reproducing, as well as introducing to others, so I went home and made a pair for myself.

You’ll need very little to make your own:


• Two wooden drapery rings
• Paper with a repeating pattern
• Silicone adhesive/sealer
• Clear stiff plastic, or a background paper you like
• A snippet of ribbon in a coordinating color

What you’re going to do is create shaped layers that will simulate a 3-dimensional object, so first choose a picture you have at least three copies of that will fit inside a drapery ring. Wrapping paper is great for that, or you can use three identical note cards.

Cut one image out in its entirety. It’s the bottommost picture you’ll use. Figure out what’s going to stick out farther than the first picture and cut that out. Your last picture, you’ll cut so that only the parts that stick out the most remain.



(I cheated. I wanted to my butterfly to be a little bigger, so I used an extra set of wings. You can ignore that step, or copy it, your choice!)

Trace a circle that’s a little smaller than the outside dimension of your drapery ring on a sheet of clear plastic, and cut out. (The lid from a box of greeting cards works well for this.) I like the clear plastic because when the butterflies are on the wall, their background will automatically match the room, but you can use a pretty paper as your background if you prefer. If you do that, you’ll want to use a fairly heavy paper so it won’t be flimsy.


Now glue your first, largest, layer to the circle. I glued down my extra pair of wings and then glued the full butterfly atop that. This layer is flat.


Take the middle sized layer, and shape it a bit, curving the wings, and making a crease along the body where the wings join.


The silicone adhesive is what you’ll use to hold the shape of the layers. Put a little blob of it where it will support an upward curve. Toothpicks work well for getting good placement. The advantage of the silicone is that it’s both malleable and sticky. If you think the layer looks like it sticks out too much, just squish down on it a little, or you can pull up a bit on the paper if you want more depth. The silicone holds its shape while acting as glue, too.


You won’t be using much silicone, but do work in a well-ventilated area.
Do the same thing for the remaining layers.


Let dry. Flip over and glue to the back of the drapery ring. Carefully twist the metal loop at the top of the drapery ring so that it faces you. Tie a bow at the base of the drapery ring’s hanging loop.

"TIME FOR DINNER!" Recipe Tins Tutorial

Okay, admit it. You were so sure there’d be a way to use those spiffy metal tins you used to get in the mail from AOL, the ones that held a CD, that you saved every one of them. Do you still have them? Because I finally found a way to use mine, and I’m so excited about it that I’m going to show you what I did!

Here’s what you’ll need:

• CD tin
• Gesso
  
• Fabric
• Cut outs from old magazines
• Alphabet Stickers, or the word “Recipe” cut from a magazine or book
• Small adornments–Lace, Buttons, string, etc.
• Glue
• Every pair of scissors you own (Just kidding, but you’ll be cutting paper and cloth a variety of ways.)
• Sheet of paper or plastic for template

First, protect your work surface, then paint your tin on all sides with the Gesso. You don’t need to paint the inside.

Let that dry. If you have a second tin you haven’t painted, you can go ahead and trace around it to make a template/pattern. (Or you could do this step before doing the painting.) There’s a bit of a bead around the rim of the tin where the top goes over the bottom, so be sure you don’t use that edge to draw around, or your pattern will be too big.

Choose the fabric you’re going to use for the background, if you haven’t already, and lightly trace around you pattern. (Placement is easier if you’ve used something transparent for the pattern–the lid from a take-out box works well, or a sheet protector.) Use pinking shears to cut fabric out.

You could glue the fabric to your tin now, or do what I did, which was to cut an identical piece from an old book and sew all the way around. I find it’s easier to glue the paper down flat than fabric, to tell the truth, but I also liked the look of the stitching.

Now the real fun begins. Go through your old magazines and/or cookbooks, and find images and slogans you like. If you can’t bear to cut the actual book, you can make copies to use.

Arrange the pictures and words you’ve found on the fabric-covered tin lid. Leave room for “Recipes” if you want to include that. Glue everything down securely.

Last, use your paper pattern to cut a piece for the back of the tin from the index of an old cookbook.

Put recipe cards inside to finish. I made my own, but store-bought works just fine.

These are like potato chips for me. I just can’t stop, and I’m thanking my lucky stars these are no-calorie treats!

PRODUCTION-STYLE WIRE WRAP

Are we in full scurry mode yet? I know I am, gatherings to attend, and Arts & Crafts shows to prepare for. Honestly, there are times when I have so much to do, I just come to a full stop, not knowing what task to do next.

Efficiency becomes more important at this time of year than at any other, and I look for shortcuts.

I'd like to share a speed wire wrap hint: Do as much as you can assembly line style.

For instance, a simple wrapped loop has a number of steps. Fully described, they are:

1. Pick up spool of wire and wire cutters.
   
2. Measure out the length you need, and cut.
   
3. Put down the wire cutters, pick up the round nose pliers, and make a wrapped loop.
   
4. Put down the round nose pliers, pick up the wire cutters, and cut off the excess.
   
5. Put down the wire cutters, pick up the flat nose pliers, and squish the end of the wrap flat.
   
6. String on a bead.
   

That's six steps, with six tool changes, per bead. Multiply that by the number of beads you need, say seven, and that's 42 steps, with 42 tool changes.

Now, instead of that, try this:

1. Pick up spool of wire and wire cutters.

2. Measure out the length you need, and cut as many pieces of wire as you'll need. (Say, seven.)

3. Put down the wire cutters, pick up the round nose pliers, and make all the wrapped loops.

4. Put down the round nose pliers, pick up the wire cutters, and cut off the excess on each of the seven pieces.

5. Put down the wire cutters, pick up the flat nose pliers, and squish all the ends flat.

6. String a bead on each of the wrapped loop eye pins you've created.

That's still six steps, and six tool changes, but you've done all the beads. You just saved yourself 36, count 'em, thirty-six, tool changes. That's a time saver, even if you're making just one thing. If you've got multiple items to make, it really does add up. It also has the advantage of being something you can do ahead of time, even when you don't have the time or inclination to attempt an entire jewelry piece.

You can continue similarly with the rest of the piece you're creating.

If you're making a bracelet, or other item that ends with a clasp, you'll need to leave both loops unfinished on the end bead, one to attach to the chain of beads you've created, and the other to accept the clasp.

TUTORIAL: SQUIGGLY WIGGLY EARRINGS

It’s December. The kids are still in school, with the holiday break still weeks away. Inside the house is breathing in, outside the chilly winds and bleak skies can make staying in a very attractive option. The silence can practically ring in your ears, can’t it?

Ringing…ears? Oooh. Let’s turn it around and make earrings! And since the squiggly-squirmy folk are elsewhere, why don’t we remind ourselves of them with a style I call “Squiggly-Wiggly?

Here’s what you’ll need:

• 22 or 24 gauge wire
• Two teal beads 7mm-8mm
• Two matte Capri blue beads 10mm-12mm
• Seed beads in matching or coordinating colors
• One pair earring wires
• Your tools

First cut a length of wire about 3” long. On one end, bend a very small spiral of about 1 ½ to 2 rounds. Use protected tips on your round nose pliers to prevent little gouges. I personally let the gouges happen, to add an interesting textured look.

Now is a good time to play with the color sequence a bit. You might like to put the blue seed beads next to the Capri blue bead, and the teal seed beads next to the teal bead, or the other way ‘round might appeal to you more. Just string the beads onto your 3” wire and take a look. When you’ve decided, take the beads off the wire, and you’re ready to start.

I opted to match the seed beads to the beads, so I’ll give the directions that way.

The next thing you’re going to do is string on a blue seed bead, the Capri blue bead, and another blue seed bead. Make a wire-wrapped loop at the top, ending with a sharp bend up and then a gentler bend down.

Now bend the wire straight out, away from your bead:

At about the ½” point, bend the wire back in, then back out again, and then back toward the bead another time, decreasing the length of your “squiggle” as you go.

Cut the wire off to the point at about ¼” beyond the last outer loop. You want to have enough left to make a round loop at the bottom. Play with this; yours do not have to look exactly like mine. Use your fingers to mash things this way and that to get the look you want.

Okay! Time for the next part!

With about 3 ½” of wire, begin a wire-wrapped loop, but before you complete it, thread it through the top loop on the Capri blue bead assembly:

Finish the wrap, then string on the teal seed bead, teal round bead, and teal seed bead. Make a wire-wrapped loop at the top, then “squiggle” the wire down the side of the bead. Your bends are going to be much gentler this time. I’ll let the photo speak for itself:

Now repeat what you just did, all those steps above, unless you want only one earring. (Just kidding—I know you know!)

Open the bottom loop of your earring wires, and hang your bead assemblies on them. Be sure to hang them “facing” opposite directions, to make a left and a right.

Finished set:

To show what a difference another choice of beads might make, here’s another set (I did make a whole pair, but couldn’t get the two of them to play nicely together for their portrait):

You’ll notice I finished off the top bead differently, too, by using a tad more wire and wrapping it completely around the bead, to end in a tiny loop against the glass. Use your imagination, and may the Force be with you!

Are the kids home yet?

LITTLE TIN BOXES--A CRAFT TO DO

Yesterday was one of those days, and I mean that in the best way possible. I needed to make something. Really, really needed to put my head, heart, and hands into an art or craft project. Does that kind of craving ever hit you?

Luckily, Kimbuktu, on her wonderful blog, was ready with the answer to Well, what are you gonna do then? I took her instructions on making a tiny coin purse from an Altoids tin, and ran with them. Thank you, Kim!

So, if you'd like to do this, too, here's what you'll need:

• Empty tins. Altoids are great, but others work well, too.
• Paints
• Protective coating or decoupage medium
• Stickers
• Magazines, books, pictures, etc.
• Doo-dads (That's the technical name for those little bits of this and that like tinsel or buttons or beads or broken jewelry or the like.)
• Glue
• Scissors
• Tape

I started by selecting several tins I wanted to play with, and painting them. I figured a basic cream color would work well. I had the bright idea of making a color copy of the tins, to use for templates, but ended up using the tins themselves. Well, some things seem like better ideas than they are, I guess!





It took several coats of paint to cover the tins, and after I'd painted them I put on a protective coat of clear. While each coat dried, I flipped through old magazines and sheet music, a book or two....

You can use the original images and words cut straight from your source materials, or copy them, if you have a scanner/printer. The magazine and music I used the originals. The little girl and the elf riding a frog were in an old children's book, and I couldn't bring myself to lay the scissors to them, so I copied what I wanted onto some thick, creamy, textured paper acquired at an estate sale.

The Altoids tin was my first project:



The Value of Enthusiam


Then one using a Celestial Seasonings tin:



Dive Right In!


Then one using a bitty little Starbucks mint tin, that opens at the top:



A Coffee Hallelujah


And last, and probably my favorite, a barn-shaped tin a little magnetized toy had come in:



Little


On that one, I've done the back and inside, too. The others are waiting for that step. The back:



Wee Folk, Good Folk


And the inside:




Kimbuktu's tin has handles, which I haven't done. Yet. I'm thinking of a wire-wrapped bead handle, but that's going to have to wait for later today or else tomorrow.

When I'd finished the little collages, I protected them, with decoupage medium for the magazine pictures, but the "Little" tin, it was small enough to cover with wide packing tape, and I opted for that. My copier is an inkjet, and I didn't want to risk the ink running when I brushed a liquid coating on.

The edges of the tins, which I haven't shown here, I covered with strip stickers meant to be used as scrapbooking borders, which gave a nice finished look.

Are you ready to make yours? I'd love to see the results, if you do!

MAKE A MINI CAKE STAND

Make a mini cake stand? Your first question may not be "How?", but "Why?"



Oddly, when I wrote the sentences above, what popped into my mind was the question of why anyone would climb Mt Everest, and its classic answer: "Because it's there."

We have even better reasons for mini cake stands:

• They're pretty, and you can put things other than cake on them:


• Cupcakes and muffins


• Candy


• Soap


• Jewelry


• Candles


• Your keys


• Small bottles of perfume, lotion, etc.


• Any number of other small things that would be pretty displayed like that

I'm back from my near-week of crafting with Mama, Aunt Charlotte, two daughters, and a five-year-old granddaughter, and eager to share what we did. The muffin stands were the first things we worked on.

You need:

• Candle sticks, or similarly shaped glass items


• Pretty saucers or salad plates


• A really reliable glue (My choice: E6000)
  

The process is simple: Glue a saucer to a candle stick. Done.



But tips are good, too:
.
Pay attention to style consistency--put modern with modern, delicate with delicate, etc.

Let yourself see things with "different eyes". A candlestick may be what's on the Materials List, but that doesn't mean you can't use an upside-down wine glass, or a tumbler. What else makes a good pedestal? Let yourself see the possibilities. I frequently shop the thrift store aisles with a saucer in hand, checking to see if one thing or another will work!

Most surprising to me was the discovery that plates and saucers may be somewhat warped, rather than perfectly flat, and candlesticks may not have perfectly level tops. Before you glue pieces together, make sure the saucer is level. If it isn't, try rotating it on the candlestick, as sometimes the slant of one can be positioned to offset the slant of the other. If that doesn't work, try another piece.

You may feel a colored candlestick might work better than crystal. You can paint them, if you like. I paint the inside of the cup on top, and the underside of the base with the color I want, and then coat the paint with a clear, protective "lacquer".


I have a mental image of the breakfast table set, with one of these stands at each place, a lovely fat muffin atop each one, inviting smiles and butter. I have the stands now. All I need are muffins!

(A final word on the glue. E6000 is the best I've found for bonding glass, bar none. You do have to go back and check every few minutes for the first half hour or so, to make sure things haven't slid off-center, and do be sure to give the full twenty-four hours before doing anything too brutal to test the bond, but after that you'll be hard pressed to pry the pieces apart. You can get it at craft stores. And no, I don't work for the company that makes the stuff!)
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MEET THE NEW CUFF BRACELETS

Okay, I've been talking about the new cuff bracelets I've been making for weeks and weeks. It's about time they actually made an appearance on my blog. (My apologies, by the way, for being so completely absent of late. I got sick, followed by rather lazy, followed by way too busy trying to make up for the first two things in this sentence!)

The bracelets came about because a stack of nice, but small, faux leather samples from a local design house came face to face with my deep reluctance to throw anything remotely useful away. What, I wondered, could you make with something that little?

Here's what I came up with:


That's one of the very first styles I came up with. Basically, if you want to do your own, you cut a piece of faux leather a little larger than 4" X 6" (10.2cm X 15.2cm). Attach a button or buttons. Placement will depend on where you want the decoration to be in relation to the lacing--near one end if you want it right next to the laces, or in the middle, if you want the button to ride on top of your wrist.

Once the button is securely attached, fold your piece in half lengthwise, and sew about 1/4" to 3/8" (0.6cm to 1cm) from the edge. Pink the sewn edge, and punch five holes on each end. Cut a length of elastic cord about 24" (61cm) long, and lace through the holes like you would a shoe. Lace each end of the cord through two holes of a four-hole button, and tie a knot. You can cinch the laces tight after the cuff is on your wrist, using the button.



After I did some simple button adornments, it occurred to me that the scraps from cutting the cuffs could also be put to use, and I did this:


Then the idea of using pinked disks of colorful fabrics popped into my mind:


You'll notice there are a few beads, too, I'm sure.

A couple more:






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